THE SECOND
STEP——SMELL</SPAN> </SPAN></SPAN> The most important faculty we employ in perceiving a wine's character is our sense of smell. In fact, most of what we take to be taste is in fact odor.</SPAN> So here comes the swirling. This too can feel unnatural, even dangerous if your glass is too full and your clothing brand-new. The easiest way to swirl is to rest the base of the glass on a table, hold the stem between thumb and forefinger, and gently rotate the wrist. Right-handers will find a counter-clockwise motion easiest, left-handers the reverse.</SPAN> When you swirl wine in a glass and sniff it, the volatile essences of the wine are carried by thousands of nerve endings in your nasal cavity to the olfactory bulb in your brain. The same thing happens, via the retronatal passage in the back of the mouth, when you sip and swallow wine. In effect, flavors are odors in your mouth. Swirling volatilizes the wine's aromas and sniffing draws them into the olfactory bulb, which "interprets" them -- i.e., compares them to other familiar smells.</SPAN> This is a complex process, because a wine consists of over 200 different chemical compounds, many of which are identical or similar to those found in fruits, vegetables, spices, herbs, and other substances. That's why wine geeks compare the aromas of different wines to smells as various as apple, melon, citrus, cherry, berry, raisin, honey, peach, vanilla, butterscotch, mint, bell pepper, grass, green olive, clove, licorice, cedar, coffee and chocolate. They're not being fanciful; there's a chemical correlation underlying the comparison, and this fact explains the rich metaphorical language used to describe a wine's sensory characteristics.</SPAN> The primary grape smells of a wine, distinct by variety, make up its</SPAN> aroma</SPAN>, while secondary characteristics, caused by factors such as fermentation and oak and bottle aging, blend with its fruit smells to form the wine's</SPAN> bouquet</SPAN>.</SPAN> There are also smells associated with spoilage in wine. A</SPAN> vinegary</SPAN> smell is caused by acetic acid, while a</SPAN> nail polish</SPAN> aroma reflects the formation of ethyl acetate. Rubbery,</SPAN> skunky</SPAN>, rotten egg or</SPAN> garlic/onion</SPAN> aromas are byproducts of sulfides, while a barnyard aroma results from a yeast spoilage organism called</SPAN> brettanomyces</SPAN>. Faulty corks can cause a</SPAN> moldy</SPAN> or</SPAN> wet cardboard</SPAN> aroma, while a</SPAN> sour milk</SPAN> aroma is due to another spoilage organism called</SPAN> lactobacillus</SPAN>. These organisms won't hurt you, but if they're in high enough concentrations to notice, the wines they mar are probably not worth drinking, and you should return them to the retailer or restaurateur from whom you purchased them. Given modern wine technology, you will not encounter flawed wines very often.</SPAN> </SPAN> To fully appreciate a wine's aroma, swirl it in your glass -- not too vigorously, or you might have a large cleaning bill. The aroma should be clean and fresh, without any of the off-odors mentioned above. If the wine is young, you should smell the characteristic scents associated with the variety, perhaps accented by the smell of the barrels it was aged in. If the wine is older, you'll likely notice a less fresh and fruity aroma, but one with more complexity.</SPAN> </SPAN></SPAN> 阅读全文>> |
刘翔在全运会的亮相,已经成了这几日几乎所有媒体都在关注的焦点。
这个时候,任何一个娱乐明星可能都红不过刘翔,他的航班被猜测、住址被猜测、所有的行踪几乎都被媒体在围堵,而关注他的,除了媒体、除了他的粉丝,还有全国上下的观众,甚至包括国家领导人。这就是刘翔。 还记得去年的奥运会,在刘翔无奈退赛的背后引发的一系列争论,有说支持的,也有谩骂的。一年多之后,人们都会把当时鸟巢里关于刘翔的那一幕逐渐淡忘,但我仍然想说,08年,我支持刘翔的退出;09年,静静地看着刘翔的归来。 一直在研究运动康复的我,也曾给受腰伤困扰却坚持要参加舞蹈比赛的太太进行过康复训练,对于属于舞台和赛场的人,不到万不得已,他们不会轻易放弃。我欣赏着太太身上的坚韧,同时更能明白肩负着国家体育重任的刘翔内心的坚持。但是脚伤在身,退赛的确是最明智、也最长远的一个决定。如果他没有退赛,我们今天还能在全运会的现场看到一个自然行走的刘翔吗?咬牙冲到终点的结局,或许会是一连串不可想象的悲剧。还好,刘翔的选择是要给自己一个慢慢康复的机体,于是我们现在又见到了这个帅气的小伙子。 10月24号,刘翔会出现在全运会男子110米栏比赛的预赛现场,如果没有意外,25号的决赛仍然可见他的身影。我没有更多的期待,只希望刘翔一切都好。祝福他! |
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